
The Budapest of
that time, 1971, was a drab and dreary place. Mementos of the brief, abortive
1956 Hungarian Uprising against their Soviet oppressors were everywhere. Sides
of buildings were riveted with bullet holes. Russian soldiers patrolled the
streets in pairs, machine guns slung across their shoulders, unsmiling, stony
faced, ignoring everyone and everything in their path.
I remember being cold all the time. Buildings
were not centrally heated – rooms had ceramic stoves heated with soft coal. It
was warm only immediately next to the stove. I cut the fingers out of a pair of
gloves so that I could wear them in class and still take notes.
But I had been
fortunate in finding a wonderful place to stay. After looking at several rooms near
the Academy that ranged from dreary to dismal, I decided to look farther
afield. I had bought a little yellow VW in Amsterdam, so it was possible to
search beyond the city limits. High in the hills on the Buda side of the
Danube, (that’s the Duna, in Hungarian) I found a wonderful old pouszta (country)
style home with a room to rent. The house was blindingly white, long and low,
with a series of archways across the front and a red tile roof. I later learned
that the red tile roof was new. Just a couple of years before it had been
thatch.
I rang the bell
at the wrought iron gate and a young dark haired woman came bustling down the
flagstone path, accompanied by several dogs and some hens and roosters she
shooed out of the way. Unlocking the gate she said “Tesek”, a word I learned
had many meanings, but at that time clearly meant I was to come in.

She sat me down
at the little kitchen table. “Ehes?” she asked, proceeding to dish out a large
bowl of the rich dark soup and cutting me a slice of heavy black bread to
accompany it. By this time I had decided to take the room whatever and wherever
it was in this household. I think I’d have happily bedded down in the chicken
coop.
But that didn’t
prove necessary. The room was small, but bright, its single bed and armoire
were painted green and decorated in peasant style with birds and flowers. There
was a window looking out on the garden, which could be opened if the weather
was balmy or closed and shuttered against winter winds, and there was a sheepskin
on the floor beside the bed so that bare feet wouldn’t land on chilling tiles.
I had found a
home. That was in October. I soon became a part of the household, just another
family member along with Sari, her husband Gyuri, their two children, Kati and
Peter and the patriarch of the family, Nagypapa, (Grandfather).
We quickly
settled into comfortable routines. I had been there only a couple of days when
Sari sat down at the table with me and produced two small books – one entitled
“English-Hungarian Dictionary and the other “Madgar-Angol Szotar”. We started
talking, referring to our dictionaries every two or three words. Sari, who had lived most of her life in a
country occupied by invading armies, first the Germans and then the Russians,
had insatiable curiosity about everything beyond Hungary’s borders. What was it
like living in the west? How many rooms did my house have? How much money did a
school teacher make in America? Where did we go on holidays? What did we eat?
My vocabulary
increased exponentially, perhaps aided by Nagypapa, who would pour me a water
glass full of wine every evening, which he never allowed to become empty. The
family grew grapes and made their own wine that was stored in a cave dug into
the hillside. Nagypapa would go out to the cave, siphon off a pitcher of the
fruity white wine and bring it into the kitchen where Sari and I were at our
language lessons, saying, “Kisci bor jol aludni.” A little wine, good sleep. It
was very good wine and I slept exceedingly well.
But I missed my
husband so I made plans to go home and spend Christmas with him. When I told Sari that I would be leaving on
December 15th and returning after the New Year she was appalled. “You’re
not here for Christmas? This is not a good thing. It is an important family
holiday and you will not be here with your Hungarian family to celebrate?”
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Almas Retes |
There was nothing
for it but to hold Christmas early. The night before I left we had a
traditional Hungarian Christmas dinner, ending up with a scrumptious
traditional desert, Almas Retes, then we went into the long narrow room with
all the arched windows. There, Gyuri had set up the Christmas tree, freshly cut
pine, its pungent scent filling the air. There were short fat candles on each
branch. Real candles. At a given moment he lit them one by one until the whole
tree was blazing with soft flickering light. No tree I’ve ever seen before or
since has been as beautiful. Under the tree were boots. My boots, Kati’s boots
and Peter’s boots. And in the boots were presents. Mine was a hand embroidered
table cloth that had belonged to Sari’s grandmother.
The next day I
flew back to the US and for the next two weeks I did the usual round of holiday
parties and admired myriad, mostly artificial, Christmas trees with their blinking
electric lights and saw houses outlined in lights with Santa Clauses up on the
rooftops and reindeer in yards—and my mind kept returning to my beloved
Hungarian family and the fresh cut pine tree with the real candles.
I was happy to
see my husband. It was never easy being separated from him as we were all too
often by his work or mine. But Christmas for me will always recall memories of a
pouszta-style house in the Buda hills, Almas Retes, and a tree lit with real
candles.
Sari and I have
remained life-long friends. I have returned to Hungary many times since, and she
has visited me in the US, in Canada, and in the Caribbean. We’re both widows
now, but we’re still family to each other.
.........................................................................................................................
Recipe for Almas Retes (Hungarian apple strudel)
Preheat the oven
to 350.
Ingredients:
- 6 apples
- Sugar as needed
- Ground walnuts as needed ( at least a full cup )
- ½ pound (more or less) of melted butter
- A package of filo sheets. This is a dough that comes in paper thin sheets, each about a foot long. It comes in a long thin box. Filo dough is available in most high end specialty food markets.
- You will need a large baking tray, a pastry brush and a damp tea towel. (The damp tea towel makes it easier to handle the fragile pastry.)
Process:
- Slice the apples into thin wedges. Have the ground walnuts in a dish ready to use and the sugar in an open container.
- Melt the butter.
- Place the damp tea towel on a smooth counter surface.
- Take the roll of filo dough out of the package. Unroll it and carefully remove two sheets, placing them on the damp tea towel.
- Brush butter on them generously. Be careful to brush lightly. The dough is fragile.
- Sprinkle the dough with sugar and ground walnuts.
- Add two more sheets on top of the first two. Butter and sugar these as you did the first two. Sprinkle them with ground walnuts.
- Add two more sheets and repeat the process.
- You are now ready for the filling. Place the apples in a long narrow strip at the end of the tea towel closest to you.
- Now lift the edge of the tea towel closest to you and gently roll the filled dough from the end nearest you to the other end. You will end up with a long narrow roll with the apples at the center.
- Now roll the retes onto the baking sheet and butter the top.
- Bake for 45 minutes and serve warm.
Merry Christmas!
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Following are my published novels. Go to my Goodreads page, to find more info and reviews.
To purchase one of these books, click on the book link below and select the vendor of your choice.
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COMING SOON! Blair's latest novel, Romantic Road, is a romantic mystery set in Europe. It is set for release in 2014! Stay tuned.

To be released in 2014 through Wild Rose Press
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• The Memory of Roses ~ The story of a secret and how it impacts two generations of the McQuaid family. It unfolds on the beautiful Greek Island of Corfu and is a tale complete with beautiful and passionate women, handsome and fiery men, and an intriguing mystery.
"The Memory of Roses by Blair McDowell
is simply an incredibly lovely story. It’s also a love story, and a story about
finding yourself, and about closure. The theme running through the book is
“all’s well that ends well.” -- Marlene, Reading Reality
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• Delighting In Your Company ~ Delighting In Your Company is a paranormal romance set on an exotic Caribbean island, featuring a handsome ghost and an adventurous heroine who travels back in time to solve a mystery!
"Delighting In Your Company is a unique paranormal romance that brings together island folklore, history, and mystery with an unlikely romance between the past and present that had me going through a torrent of emotions and made it impossible to put down." -- The Romance Reviews
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• Sonata ~ Sayuri McAllister has just arrived home to Vancouver to find some shocking situations:
~ A robbery has taken place at her family home, and it is being investigated by her old flame;
~ Alyssa James who she barely knows, is about to become her new stepmother;
~ and Alyssa’s brother, Hugh James, is a charming Irishman who is intent on bedding and wedding the rich and beautiful Sayuri.
It’s a confusing and difficult time for Sayuri, especially when dangerous accidents happen to her father and herself – or are they accidents?
“I found Sonata to be a charming novel that left me laughing out loud
in parts and gnawing nails in others. It was a delight to read.” – Night Owl
Reviews
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• Abigail's Christmas (short story) ~ An enchanting tale of love and romance, with a magical touch of fantasy.
Abigail's Christmas is a holiday story about Abigail who goes looking for a tree on Christmas Eve, and ends up with the man of her dreams in a sleigh in the Rockies --- with a wedding in the offing! Is it real? Is she dreaming? Or is it just Christmas magic?
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Blair McDowell