Day 17 - Kalmar, Sweden
I am unable to go ashore today. My knee is very swollen
and access is only by tender. The ship could not dock in port as is has been
able to up to now. JP is planning to go ashore, but may not, since there seems
to be at least an hour’s wait for tenders and if that problem exists going, it will exist coming back.
Not sure if Kalmar is worth a two hour wait. I can’t,
from reading about it, see any real reason we are here. Certainly the view we
see from where we’re anchored is uninspiring. With a population of 40,000, it
appears to be an oil storage terminal among other things. It does boast a 16th
Century castle, but then, what town in Europe doesn’t?
Anyway, if JP
gets into Kalmar and if she gets
back, we’ll find out whether it was worth the effort!
![]() |
Kalmar, Sweden |
JP did get into Kalmar. The tender took the passengers
around the point, right into the center of town, a very different view than the
one we had where the ship was anchored.
She reports that it is a lovely little, very walkable
town with charming old buildings and nice squares. As you know JP has a thing
about churches and old organs. This little town boasts the largest Baroque
church in Sweden, with not only an old and substantial pipe organ, but also a
smaller two manual tracker in the chancel.
Kalmar Town Centre |
Baroque churches in northern Europe are much simpler in
their decoration that those we have seen (and loved) in Austria, Hungary, and
Italy. I must admit to a love for the florid over-done churches of the south
with their gilded cherubs flying around the pipes.
Day 18 –
Copenhagen
Our view of Copenhagen is somewhat colored by the
fact
that it was a cold, windy, rainy day. We opted for the Hop-on Hop-off bus
tour. The last one we took (in Helsinki) worked well for us. In Helsinki, the commentary
over earphones was intelligent and informative and, most importantly, gave us
information enough ahead of the stop for us to make a decision about staying on
or getting off.
![]() |
Copenhagen |
Not so in Copenhagen. The earphones didn’t work well
from the start. Then when we got them working we found they had some kind of
God-awful electronic music playing whenever they weren’t describing stops. This
meant I heard none of the descriptions since there was no way I could listen to
the garbage between commentaries.
![]() |
Brightly coloured houses |
We missed it all. We could have stopped at Tivoli, just
to see what the first ever amusement park looked like, but since I loathe Disneyland
I had no desire to see its predecessor.
Then there was one street full of colorful houses on a canal. We’d have
gotten off there except we didn’t see it until after the stop for it. We
finally got off at the stop where the Little Mermaid sits on her rock in the
harbour. From there
we walked in a truly drenching rain back to the ship.
The Little Mermaid |
Copenhagen, more than any other city we saw in northern
Europe, is a BIG city. As such, for the most part it looks like every other BIG
city in the world. High rise buildings. Modern architecture. It has much
attractive green space, city parks and open areas, but it is still mostly big
city.
There was stark contrast between ultra-modern architecture
and older more traditional buildings. JP feels we didn’t give Copenhagen a fair
chance, but I have no desire to return to it.
****
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Blair McDowell